While getting a new wheelset for your cycle, you basically look at these factors -
* number of spokes, (lesser the better for reducing cross wind resistance, but fixing a bend becomes too difficult as number of spokes go less). Typical numbers are 36 or 32 on hybrid and 28 or less on racing cycles. The number of spokes should match on rim and hubs.
* Spoke type - the straight pull ones are aerodynamic but expensive, the normal J bend ones look ok.)
* hub type, (bearings, rim or disc brake, type of disc attachment) gear capacity for free hub (8/9/10 or 11 gears or the micro splined type for 12 gears).
* Thru axle / QR / old style.
* Spacers in case you are buying a freehub designed for 11 speeds, but plan to use with 8/9/10 speed cassette.
* Valve hole size. There are three -Schraeder / presta / old style Dunlop
* Width of rim. You don't want too wide or too narrow rims - plenty of material on the web about width - rim bead seat correlation. Tyres can be between 1.4 and 2.4 times bead seat width of a rim.
* Maximum air pressure a rim can take.
* The colour and material of course. Of rim, spokes, nipples..
* Some rims are meant exclusively with disc brakes. But rim brake type rims can be used with disc brakes if the hubs support discs.
* Tyre type - clincher or your usual ordinary tyres. And again there are 2 types - tubed and tubeless ready.
Tubular tyres - the ones which are both tubes and tyres at same time are best avoided by ordinary folk. Most people won't like these tubular tyres because punctures cannot be fixed, AFAIK
Rim diameter is typically 26 inch, 27.5 or 650B and 622mm at bead seat in ISO notation for hybrids or road bikes that use 700C tyres in ETRTO notation.
Rim width is correlated to tyre width. 29ers use ,622 bead seat diameter rims, same as hybrid and road bikes. But these are wider to accommodate wider knobby tyres of 29ers.
Selecting the rim material too is not subject of this post. Most readers would like alloy double walled rims.
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